- Emily Katz
The Many Heavens of Bali
When I made the resolution over 2 years ago to get out of my comfort zone and take a trip a month, I didn’t see Bali on the horizon. But through a chance meeting over dinner 6 years ago that connected my partner Adam to our friend Rob who owns this beautiful place in Amed, Bali, our tickets were booked. I had heard stories from friends who had visited about the peacefulness of the place, the ritual, the offerings. I had heard about temples, and I had heard about hippy surfers. I had also heard about all the fresh fruit, the chickens and the local dogs. I had heard about the textiles, and the genuine smiles plastered on the faces of the local people. Also, four of our friends from Portland were going to be there, staying in the Villa owned by our other friend, and they had no idea we were coming. We found flights by doing a google search, and finding the cheapest days to fly. We ended up flying Delta Portland to Tokyo, to Singapore, to Denpasar Bali. The total travel time was 38 hours. We slept in the airport on the floor, we ate all the airplane food, we watched a million movies. (on the way home we stayed in the airport hotel in Singapore. TOTALLY WORTH IT).
Once we landed we were picked up by our driver Adi, who took us the 2.5 hours to Amed in his van. Along the way we stopped and tried Luwak coffee, which comes out of the digestive systems of the cutest little furry creatures, and we toured a traditional Balinese weaving town. I loved the doorways, the plants, the magical little moments everywhere you turned. These things continued to show up for us the entire trip. Arriving at our destination, the excitement of the trip settled in on us. We were met with a welcome drink of fresh watermelon juice with a plumeria blossom in it. The details. Everywhere. We changed into our bathing suits and laid by the pool but we couldn’t relax. Our excitement about surprising our friends could not be contained, and we hadn’t really planned what we were going to do or how it was all going to go down. We didn’t even know when they were coming back to the Villa from their day of wandering the village. It didn’t take long though. We were inside the house when they came in, and shouting with glee welcomed us to Bali.
Breakfast at the Golden Buddha
For the next few days we ate breakfast at 8am and then either read by the pool, or snorkeled the local beaches.
Smiling offering maker
Mangosteen and flowers at the market
Inside the Golden Buddha
One day, Adi drove us to town and we visited a local market. Adam bought some amazing handmade knifes, and we tried mangosteen for the first time, the unassuming brown fruit, bursting open in our fingers to delight us with its floral tasting insides.
Plant shadows and my Hackwith Design House bathing suit.
One of my favorite souvenirs.
After a few days in Amed, we booked an Airbnb in Ubud, and took another 2 hour car ride to get there. Our Villa was perched up in Penestenan, a little suburb of Ubud that takes about 40 minutes to walk up to. Amid rice paddies and the songs of frogs, our place was beautifully designed, and a total dream.
We ate the most amazing fruit everyday. Two Balinese women would come over to our house in the morning and make us coffee and toast and fruit. We had so many things to do! But we ended up reading and relaxing.
so many magical doorways in Ubud.
Wandering the back alleys we found so many amazing doorways. I had to stop frequently and take photos.
We loved popping into this magical cafe.
The pad thai was good, but the music was better at the Art Kafe. We stumbled into this cute place that is of the Monkey Forest Road when the sky threatened to dump buckets of rain on us. We were originally seduced by the BUY ONE get ONE mojitos, but they got us with the classic rock on the stereo and the fiber art and stained glass.
ART KAFE interior
inspiration with our friends.
Cool sacred geometry in Ubud
these girls begged me to take their photo! The cutest!
Marcello Massoni showing us glazes.
I met Marcello Massoni online via a home exchange website, and though he couldn’t offer us a place to stay, he invited us to visit the ceramic factory of Gaya Ceramic that he and his wife run just outside of Ubud.
one of the happy ceramicists at Gaya Ceramics
I was endlessly inspired by the space, by the detail of the pieces, and by the beautiful way that Marcello moved through the world. He and his wife came from Italy over 13 years ago after being invited to open up a workshop in Bali and they stayed. His enthusiasm was contagious, and his recommendations invaluable.
He took us through the workshop, even under construction (it was still amazing), and then to the beautiful indoor/outdoor studios where visiting artists come from all over the world to work. If you are a ceramics artist CHECK THIS PLACE OUT. It was incredible.
workshop zone with woodfired kilns
Inside the ceramics workshop where they catalog all the pieces they make for up to 5 years.
Marcello’s wife in a meeting with clients
piles of wood for the kiln
The gallery where artists in residence sell their wares.
After our inspired tour we walked to Bambu Indah on Marcello’s suggestion. We weren’t really that hungry, but we trusted his advice and we didn’t really have any other plans.
magical boy playing with rubber bands and bamboo.
We were transported. Bambu Indah is a beautiful resort compound where they grow their own food in the most insane green houses, the pool is actually a river flowing through the property, and the Joglos (the wooden houses) are all unique and special. I wish we had known about this place when we booked out trip. We ordered gin and tonics (seems to be the drink of the trip!) and settled into a seat with a view of the rice paddies. Founded by John and Cynthia Hardy, it is a utopia of sustainability and magic.
Adam as Tarzan
This building is made entirely of BLACK BAMBOO. Insane.
inside the restaurant
An amazing place for a dinner party
Gardens surrounding the Joglos
I highly recommend it there…around every turn, each detail was considered. It was truly magical. We will stay here for SURE when we visit Bali again. I just wanted to move in!
Before leaving Ubud we had to visit Threads of Life, a well curated shop that supports textile artists in the country. They by far had the most beautiful selection of textiles.
Threads of LIfe Bali
The next leg of our trip was a different animal. The rain came and I didn’t get to go to the restaurants I had wanted to go to, but it didn’t matter, the flow of the place is easy to slide into, and I was inspired to let it go. We found a wonderful driver to bring us to Seminyak (and it cost $30 for a 2 hour taxi). We arrived at our hotel, the Grand Balisani Suites, that I found for cheap on Priceline, and rented a scooter immediately.
The view from our hotel
That was the best idea yet. In retrospect, we should have done that sooner.
The magical garden at La Favela
In the afternoon we visited Potato Head Beach Club. I somehow don’t have any photos of this place, but it was amazing. For sure the splurge of the trip, to rent a beach cabana for the day, you have to spend a minimum of 1,000,000 Rupiah, which is around $80 USD. It was worth it. The sunset was at our fingertips, the cocktails flowing, the pool full of sexy tourists, and the dj was spinning great mellow vibe jams.
Totally worth it. Also we saw that a jazz legend was playing there only 2 days after we left. So check the musical schedule…
Watercress was GREAT for breakfast. We ate there twice! We didn’t have the coconuts, but I saw that they come with a heart shaped opening..so thoughtful.
Everywhere in Bali the juices were amazing, and this place had really fun smoothies, salads, and a breakfast special that was so filling and good.
watercress’s dining room.
Home Mate, a cute japanese home store and cafe
Loving the windows here.
We just scooted around until we saw something that looked interesting and then would just pull over and walk around. Home Mate was one of these places. I almost squealed when I saw the windows. This cafe was SO CUTE. There was a store next door that wouldn’t let me take photos, but I loved it there too. I had a matcha tea and bought some sambal for our friends back home.
Over breakfast we read about this place, Motel Mexicola. The tacos were maybe the best we have EVER HAD. Ever. I ate duck confit salad and drank a delicious margarita. Adam had 2 tacos and a beer. I think it cost $28, which was not cheap, but worth it for the beautiful interior design.
flower petals after our massage, and before our bath.
Across the street from Motel Mexicola is Body Works where we got the most amazing massage.
I had actually had a bad massage in Ubud, I don’t remember the place, but I totally didn’t take any recommendations and just followed my whim, which can be good sometimes, but turns out when the worst thing that happens on vacation is a bad massage, then I am doing pretty great… This place was recommended however.
This massage made up for it.
It was $60 for 1.5 hours of massage plus a flower petal bath for both of us. The massage was deep, relaxing, and very well done. I felt like a princess. The rest of the night I was in a happy daze.
That evening I met up with Aylin, who has a beautiful handbag company, Straw The Label. Aylin and her family were so lovely, we had dinner and talked about art, music and travel. She was a wonderful resource and I now have 2 beautiful bags!
Adam rocking the Tanner Goods backpack, it was perfect to fill with textiles!
On the recommendation of Mariana of Communal LA, we popped into Brown Feather. This charming boutique hotel was 16 rooms of simple elegance. The lobby was gorgeously decorated with a relaxed wabi sabi feel. The plants were well placed, and I felt totally at home. I loved the ambiance.
The magical Brown Feather Hotel
Brown Feather Hotel Lobby
Bali was like that in general. Full of wonder, paying if forward in smiles, in inspiration, in friendship and gratitude.
You have to pay to get into the country, $30 USD. You have to pay to leave too: 200,000 rupiah.
Buy textiles in Amed or Ubud, We thought maybe there would be more opportunities to find certain things, but it seemed like a lot of the objects/fabrics are very village specific.
Golden Buddha, the Grill, Snorkeling. Very chill quiet fishing village.
Bambu Indah, Gaya Ceramics, Airbnb, Art Kafe, Threads of Life, Cendana Resort, Como Hotels, Mosaic restaurant, Alchemy (amazing raw juice, sauerkraut, chocolates).
Motel Mexicola, La Favela, Potato Head Beach Club, Sarong, Watercress, Body Works, Brown Feather, Home Mate.
Pleas share your own favorite spots and tips in the comments below!